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| Lil' Larry | November 27th, 2006 02:15 PM Are there any clamps that attach to the sliding mitre table fence? or to the rip fence? I'd something that will attach to either to hold the cutting pieces in place. Any suggestions? Thanks. |
| Adam | November 27th, 2006 08:15 PM November 27, 2006 Work holders A table saw user with good safety sense. Fantastic! When I was in Sears tool sales; Sears has a rip fence guided push-block device for sale in the stores. The regular push sticks, although not attached to anything, are excellent tools to have, with two sticks being used simultaneously completely advantageous at times. There is a "feather-board" device that will allow workpieces to pass by, but LOCK if any kick-back is presented to them. There "may" still be spring steel finger guides available through Sears. There is a locking accessory piece that is designed to retrofit to many Craftsman full-scale (3/4 by 3/8 guide bar) Miter gages. Plus, there are a plethora of home-built jigs and fixtures that are routinely constructed for power woodworking tool use. Great safety question post! |
| Adam | November 27th, 2006 08:24 PM November 27, 2006 Jigs and Fixtures One of the first shop made tools for many table saws is a setup called a "sled dog". More accurate work is possible for this two-slot referenced device and cross-cutting wide work is also safer using this setup. There is the standard 90 degree, right-angle standard sled dog, and a special purpose 45 degree mitre cutting sled, that make accurate picture framing a breeze. The adding of an extension piece of wood to your miter gage will get the work piece closer to the blade and additional support while cutting long pieces. A quick look at Table Saw specialty books will show how the above, and many other accessories, can be constructed. Taunton Press, publisher of both Fine Woodworking and Fine Homebuilding magazines is an excellent source of woodworking/ DIY reference material. |
| Randal | November 28th, 2006 01:35 AM Adam Your sled is for a horse of a different color. This saw, the 21829, is a mobile clone of the BT3100. It's the kinda saw, that if you had the space for a benchtop, but needed better accuracy (building your own cabinets), then this would be for you. But, if your building fine furniture, that is extemely ornate, and you drop a lot of 3" (12/4) lumber on the table, all day, every day, it's not the one. This saw has a sliding miter table, Sears dropped the dual miter slot tables, that they sold for their predecessor, just before coming out with this saw. Now in response to the original post, if your manual is similar to the BT manual, it will show you how to make a featherboard. Otherwise, there is a clamp that was a part of the accessory kit, that I believe is recently been closed out at HD (depot). However, if you go to bt3central.com, you will find a link to articles, at the top. Ton's of tips and tricks on that site. This saw also happens to have a true riving knife, something you have to go up in budget for otherwise. |
| Lil' Larry | November 28th, 2006 11:37 AM My manual recommended the fabrication of a featherboard and gave the design for one. This was the first project I undertook with my new saw. It works great. I would like some clamps that would fit onto my mitre fance and work like toggle clamps to hold the piece securely against the fence and the table. I thought there might be something on the market that would fit into the groove onthe top of the mitre fence. I haven't found anything yet. Thanks for your input. Let me know if you know of an aftermarket clamp like i described above. Good cutting! |
| Randal | December 9th, 2006 06:14 PM There is a member named JoeyGee selling the clamp over at the bt3central site, if you are still interested. |
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