Search 
Home > Craftsman Clubs > BBS > Woodworking Tips > Jointer Fence Alignment
Woodworking Tips
Moderated by root		 Post Reply | Post New Message
Login | Join Craftsman Club | Return to Thread List
Not Logged in.
View: [Flat] Tree | Font: [Small] Large | Pages: [1]
Author Subject/Content
Mr. Bob Jointer Fence Alignment
December 20th, 2005 08:38 PM
Hey all. Just bought Model 21788 jointer. Seems like a good product. True infeed/outfeed, knives aligned properly, heavy etc.

One problem...When I tighten the fence support it goes out of alignment. Its contact w/ the table remains fairly true, but it skews such that the fence over the infeed table moves toward the back of the jointer, while the fence over the outfeed table moves further over the table. Further, before I really tighten the fence support there's a true 90 degree angle at the fence/table junction. Once I tighten it down, the fence isn't at 90 degrees once you reach the upper third of the fence (if that makes sense).

Anyone had any similar problems? And, if so, any solution absent returning it for a new unit. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks,
Bob
Adam Washers
January 1st, 2006 11:55 AM
January 1, 2006 Washers


Do you have flat washers between the locking devices and the cast-iron?

The addition of a fender washer can take out any rotating component to adjustment, while allowing just the downward thrust force to do its work. There will also be considerable less wear, over time, allowing precision adjustments over the machine's life time.

I wanted to check out the mechanism on the display unit on the floor, in the Sears where I work for you.

But, the WHOLE fence system be gone!

I knew this was a high-risk/security rated store.

But, a two-foot long, heavy, cast-iron fence system?

Jeesh....

I'll have to contact the department manager about generating a new display, putting the first unit on the shrinkage list.
Wood Butcher Jioner problems
April 8th, 2006 07:06 AM
I do not know if we are having the same problem,or not? But when I try to run an 8' 4x4 through my joiner to true it up, it takes more material from one end than the other. The more I try to run it through too fix the problem the worse it gets? I wind up with a 2x2 on one end & 1x3 on the other!
HELP!!!
Adam Taper Jointing
April 8th, 2006 01:33 PM
This sounds like a possible Jointer, workpiece feeding issue.

The way the Jointer works is having the in-feed and out-feed tables at different heights relative to each other.

Once a workpiece is successfully fed past the rotating head's knifes, pressure should be applied to the out-feed table.

Otherwise, the workpiece will just end up having an uneven (or tapered) cut.

Also, the Jointer is not a thickness planing tool.

A workpiece is run through it for a reference flat and square surface for a thickness planer or sander to finish up, parallel to the reference surface and to desired width.

A jointed surface is also a superior glueing surface. Both, side can be jointed here because creating a "built-up" workpiece is not going to throw a whole lot of innaccuracy into your work.

The final cutting to size is going to determine the workpiece's acceptability.

Jointing both sides of a piece of stock would be "lucky" at best for the two surfaces parallelity (my word) and proper thickness.

The 90 degree adjustments is assuming the side fence is FLAT.

If there is a slow twist in the fence (possibly due to the casting not having enough "normalizing" time, it either needs to be lapped flat (if just twisting) or replaced if severe.

Test the side fence by placing it against a reference flat surface and see if it "rocks".

Flat surfaces include the Jointers in or out-feed tables or a cast-iron Table Saw's surface.

This could very well be a "manufacturing defect". The local Service Center should be consulted, if you don't want to "fettle" your fence.

If you do take the time (if required) to lap your fence against 80 grit sandpaper glued to a thick glass plate, you will be rewarded with an absolutely flat, fine finished (after progressing the sandpaper to 220) fence.

All tools are "kit" tools to some extent.

First thing to do with any newly manufactured Jointer is take a Rotary Tool, with grinding point, to it's rotary head's counter-bored knife retaining holes to debur and radius them.

I almost lost a finger-tip to this little lost "detail" of manufacturing.

Did I mention my Manufacturing Engineering degree?

And, NONE of the new manufacturers seem to remember this once common practice of deburring.

Hopefully this is enough info to get your projects back on track.
PM2790 Tapers on a jointer
April 17th, 2006 03:47 PM
If you are cutting an unintentional taper on your workpiece the usual culprit is an outfeed table that is too low.

Unplug jointer. Take a known, good straight edge and lay it flat on the outfeed table extending over the cutter head. Rotate the cutter head slowly by hand. The blade should just 'kiss' the straight edge without raising it off the table. Check all blades in the cutterhead for even projection. You should also check the blades side to side as well.

Once you have the outfeed table set correctly, you can check the infeed table is paralel to the outfeed. Take a long straight edge that extends the full length of the jointer and clamp it to the outfeed table. Use feeler gauge or shim blocks/keystock to determine that the infeed table is the same distance below the outfeed close to the cutterhead as out at the front edge.

Those two checks should get you back in shape.
View: [Flat] Tree | Font: [Small] Large | Pages: [1]
  Post Reply | Post New Message