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Arthur 15" wood lathe, model # 351.217150 I need help
June 3rd, 2005 09:28 AM
I need some technical help or advice. The drive belt between the motor pulley and transmission pulley has broken on my lathe. I have ordered a replacement belt at a cost of $38.00 through Sears parts department and it is suppose to be in the mail to me. I would like to replace the belt myself and save the cost of an onsite service call. A Sears service technican will not talk to me unless I schedule and pay for an onsite service call. I have partially taken the lathe apart and I cannot figure out how to separate the two pulleys to insert the belt. Does anybody know where I can find a service manual or can anybody tell me what the trick is to getting this belt on. Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated. I need to get back in operation as I am working on a project that need to be finished before June18.

Thanks for any assistance.
Adam Wood lathe
June 3rd, 2005 11:12 AM
I've got a returned one in my PMT shop for evaluation. I'll take a look and get back to you.
Arthur 15' wood lathe
June 3rd, 2005 02:00 PM
Adam, Thanks for looking, you can email me at Mouberry@msn.com or call me at (919)594-4707. I live in North Carolina.
Adam New wood lathe belt
June 4th, 2005 07:59 PM
I've been playing with the one returned to my PMT shop and have talked to another maintenance technician who's done this before.

You need to unscrew the top 3mm allen socketed round-head screw holding the red plastic hinged cover closed, unscrew the remaining four top screws holding the black top tray in-place and last, but not least, removed the four flat-head screws (2 front/ 2 back) holding the whole black cover and red hinged cover onto the lathe's headstock.

Once this is done you should have the same marvelous view of basic mechanics I have in my PMT shop.

The top pulley assembly (driving the lathe's spindle assembly) consists of the spring-loaded "follower" split pulleys. All that is keeping this unit functioning is the spring inside the sheetmetal protective cup to the left of the pulleys and the smooth running of the moving pulley half. DO NOT remove the snap ring. It is not necessary to dissassemble this subassembly to replace the drive belt.

If you have, post back and we'll go over another "really..." fun procedure in reassembling the spring-loaded assembly.

A little bit of oil on the pulley shaft (outside pulley sides, no excess oil on the inner pulley sides please) will help keep things "following" properly.

The bottom assembly is the little engineering masterpiece. It appears to have less moving parts and be more robust than either a Delta variable speed drill press or my Shop Smith's mechanism.

Rotating the speed change dial, turns a threaded shaft that cause a 90 degree angled yolk to move the bottom pulley's right side in and out, effectively changing drive pulley diameters.

The follower pulley above compensates for increase or decrease in belt tension by literally changing (spring-loaded) its diameter.

All this happen while the machine is rotating. Otherwise, the yolk would be subject to a great deal of stress, with no change in effective pulley diameter to relieve it and most likely break.

Now, to see this you have to have the safety covers off. So, standard safety procedures dictate; safety glasses, no loose clothing, no tie (don't laugh, they used to wear them in the shop?) and in my case my bolo is tucked inside my shirt and Sears ID badge is firmly lodged in my breast pocket.

Changing the speeds on your lathe, while watching the two pulleys give and take may be a unique experience for you. Enjoy.

When you're ready to proceed, dial your lathe speed control (with the lathe turned on) to the lowest speed. Even if you old belt is "elsewhere", this will set your pulley ratios where you'll need them later.

The proceding involves working with drive components. UNPLUG your lathe.

To get a new belt on, you're going to need to remove the bottom bracket assembly (four 5mm allen cap screws). The end plate will come off very easily.

There is just barely enough room to slip off your old worn belt. With the belt out of the way, check the split pulleys' inside surfaces to make sure no belt material (or other foreign substance) is present. It there is, remove with a solvent (Goop off). No oil here please. The new belt will be traveling back and forth through the whole range enough times to make rusting concerns just about moot.

Slide the new belt over the bottom pulley and immediately replace the bottom bracket (with the four cap screws).

Your new pulley is set to go and all you need to do now is gently "roll" it onto (and into) the top pulley assembly. Bear in mind, your top pulley assembly is going to be snapped closed in the beginning. So, part of this rolling effort is going to involve gentle hand turning the spindle (large faceplate would be of help here) while you're rolling the new belt in place.

Once you've got the belt on. Immediately plug the machine back in and do a trial speed range run to make sure any stresses are removed from the installation procedure and to verify your lathe is now fully functional.

Bingo! You just saved $110.
Arthur lathe belt replacement
June 6th, 2005 08:55 AM
Adam,

Thanks for your reply. If I understand your instruction correctly this process will let me replace the variable speed belt that is located under the plastic cover. The belt that has broken on my lathe is the drive belt located inside the cast metal housing between the drive pulley and the transmission pulley. It is only about 1 inche wide and 7-8 inches round. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Arthur
Adam Lathe Belt
July 6th, 2005 03:51 AM
July 6, 2005 Lathe Belt


I'll take one last look at the wood lathe in the PMT workshop.

It's missing parts, I ordered, have come in and my other shop user is demanding his work bench back.

Something about not being able to use the bench vise with a 200 pound cast-iron wood lathe butting up to it.

Picky picky.

I'm still going to need some very strong assistance to move this bad boy off of the work bench.

And, if I put it on the existing sales floor tool area clearance table... There wont be a standing clearance table. It'll be very "flat".
Joe 351 vendor
July 6th, 2005 07:51 PM
351 should be Colovos company if you are interested in any support from them. I believe they have a website if you "google" them.

The have been a supplier to Sears for a while now..
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