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Nathan Finishing Nailer
February 5th, 2005 01:05 PM
I'm in the market for my first finishing nailer. Any ideas on a model I should start out with. Projects on my list include: crownmolding, basemolding, bookshelves, etc. Any advice would be great!
Adam First Finishing Nailer
February 5th, 2005 05:15 PM
So you want to be like Norm? Me too. I cann't get anyone to buy my tools for me though. I got my pneumatic setup a few years ago.
There are two main types of nailers I would suggest you start with one of them. The size of the nails is what differentiates them.
If you are doing delicate nailing where the size of the hole left by the nail's head is important and the length of the nail can be 1-1/2 inches or less, go with the 18 gauge (skip the 2 inch brads) brad nailer. If you are doing heavier thickness and weight moulding like crown moulding the 2-1/2 inch capable 16 gauge finish nailing gun would be better. If you're doing a job that is going to be painted, don't worry about the nail head size. Spackle is a wonderful compound.
You can use about any size tanked air compressor with these guns as their air consumption is limited to a piston that uses less air than your pinky per nail.
If you don't have a compressor yet, go with a Sears package deal of a 6 gallon "pancake" compressor with air hose and a nailer. One package has a brad nailer included. The other package has a finish nailer.
When you get your nail gun home be sure to read its safety instructions. I'm sure most of us enjoy watching "Tim The Toolman Taylor". But, let's not visit the emergency room the way he regularly does.
When you're nailing, keep your thumb away from the side of the wood where you are nailing. It's very natural to "guide" the nail gun parallel to your work by gently resting your thumb on the side of the piece you're nailing.
Pneumatic nails go in VERY quickly and they have a nasty tendency of following the grain of the wood or deflect away from a dense knots. In a blink of an eye you could shoot a nail into your thumb and have the pleasure of withdrawing it manually.
Did I mention the pneumatic nails are curved when they "follow the grain" and exit the side of the wood?
I'm not trying to scare anyone out of a marvelously productive tool.
Also, keep atleast an inch away from the end of your moulding to avoid those pesty splits. The square ended pneumatic nail is kinder than the pointed wire nails. But, it can still happen.
Have fun.
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